import matplotlib.pyplot as plt

fig, ax = plt.subplots()

# We need to draw the canvas, otherwise the labels won't be positioned and 
# won't have values yet.
fig.canvas.draw()

labels = [item.get_text() for item in ax.get_xticklabels()]
labels[1] = 'Testing'

ax.set_xticklabels(labels)

plt.show()